Sunday, March 13, 2011

On food II: Bakeries

Barcelona´s bakeries deserve a special chapter. They are very, very good. At times they may be confusing, but they are good nonetheless. I mean, who would not get confused with all the kind of breads that they actually sell? Plain baggetes, Galician bars, water bread (???), “xapates”, ecological bread (whatever that means), quarter bar, farmer´s bread, nut bread, nut and almonds bread, nut and almonds and raisins bread, sunflower seeds bread...Not to mention the Christmas bread, the Catalan National Day bread, the St. Jordi bread, the Castanyada Day bread...

The have other products, like Galician empanadas (tuna empanadas basically), pseudo pizzas in different flavors, “gypsy man´s arm” (do not ask me why it´s called that way)...and croissants of course. Croissants in every possible size and flavor: stuffed with chocolate, stuffed with ham and cheese, in tiny sizes for the calory-councious (but then you eat ten of them), stuffed with sobrasada, stuffed with tuna, stuffed with nutela, stuffed with spinaches...Catalans are obsessed with croissants.

I only have one complaint about bakeries. The more authentic the bakery is, the highest the likelihood that they willl sell you the bread wrapped only in a 3 by 3 napkind that covers, at most, 5% of the surface of the bread. And then you are supposed to walk home exposing your bread to the elements. Also, they use the same napkins to wrap the croissants in a complicated manuever that I´m still trying to master. Here it goes: They place the croissant in the center of the napkin (legs stay out of course) and then take the two right corners and the two left corners and hold them together with their thumbs and index fingers. Then they swing the product around once or twice, somehow without rupturing the napkin, leaving the croissant semi wrapped and looking more like a baby walking around with his/her diapper hanging loosely. Why, for God´s sake, do they refuse to use a plain paper bag? 

Clothing and fashion


It feel kind if inadequate when I walk around elderly people in Barcelona. Not because they are elderly, but because they all are so dressed up. It is ridiculous. The men pretty much always wear ties with cashmere sweaters and fitted (yes, fitted) pants. And matching jackets. Women are on another level. I have never ever seen an elderly lady, including those in wheelchairs, without heels and 200 euros in clothing and accessories. Shoes, jewelry, make up, matching jackets (of course) and hair in different colors. Purple is a popular hair color for this age group, for some reason. But they look fine, youthful, and better dressed than many of the fifth avenue dwellers in the big Apple. 

On food I: Fruit


Fruit in Barcelona has a quality level somewhere in between Colombia (premium!) and the USA (big and bright but tasteless). Never hesitate to go for melons, grapes, oranges, tangerines (the tangerines!), apples (several kinds), strawberries, watermelons. Be careful with bananas, avocados, and prunes. Stay away from mangoes and kiwis, they look nice, tasty and fresh to the naked eye, but more often than not are acid and ripe rapidly.

Tomatoes deserve a special chapter. At first sight there are two kinds: The big ones and the small ones. However, the average Catalan can name at least eight different varieties, each with its corresponding culinary use, price, and origin. I suggest go ahead and try them all, but ask beforehand, God forbid that you’d use the “pa amb tomaquet” version in a mere side salad.